Nepal - Part 2
The Adventure Officially Begins!
After a few days of exploring Kathmandu at our own pace, the real excitement of our adventure was finally upon us. We checked out of our luxury hotel and made our way to the next one where we’d be joining the rest of the group. Ewan had already met Harry, the founder of NomadMania, and Dan who was joining us on this incredible trip.
It’s always amazing how travel has a way of bringing people together from different walks of life! Our new friends ranged from seasoned travellers to those still taking their first steps outside the typical tourist spots (us!). One thing that brought us all together was our all shared love of exploration!
Meet Utsab, Our Guide
Next up was the man who would be leading us through this unforgettable journey: Utsab, the founder of Gaze Nepal. Utsab’s passion for his home country and its hidden treasures was instantly contagious. He welcomed us with gifts and started sharing his deep knowledge of Nepal’s rich history, culture, and natural beauty. Him and Harry from NomadMania had worked together to create this incredible itinerary.
It didn’t take long to see why Utsab was so passionate about showing travellers the real Nepal. With a genuine love for both the well-known and off-the-beaten-path destinations in his country, he promised we’d experience Nepal in ways most tourists never do — and we couldn’t wait to get started!
Pashupatinath Temple
Our first adventure as a group kicked off that very afternoon with a visit to the iconic Pashupatinath Temple—a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most sacred pilgrimage destinations for Hindus.
We arrived with no real idea of what to expect. Things got real when our guide casually dropped the word “cremation.” That definitely caught our attention. The whole place had an intense, spiritual vibe—beautiful and busy, with locals deep in prayer and all sorts of rituals happening around us.
After crossing a small bridge over the Bagmati River we were invited to meet a Holy Man—the Aghori. Entering the dim, smoke-filled room where he resided was a surreal experience. A fire burned on the altar (pro tip: never point your feet towards it!), and offerings were made on our behalf by our guide and our host, Utsab.
Bev was especially fascinated by the Aghori—though he definitely liked to talk. The details of the conversation are a bit of a blur (not because of the shots passed around, we swear!), but we do remember hearing about their rather unconventional practices—yes, including consuming human flesh. It was chaotic, intense, and strangely unforgettable.
Afterward, we wandered back to witness the evening fire ceremony, held every night at 7 p.m. Monkeys were everywhere—thanks to the bananas we’d been handed they quickly became our clingy companions. A few were snatched right out of our hands, so we eventually surrendered the rest without a fight.
We made our way to a scenic overlook, watching as others entered the temple (sadly, we weren’t permitted inside). Even from the outside, the atmosphere was powerful.
It was a lot to take in—overwhelming, emotional, and truly extraordinary. A true once-in-a-lifetime experience. As the sun set we made our way out of the temple grounds and found a nearby spot for a drink while waiting for our minibus. Back at the hotel, we had a quick (and well needed) wash before dinner and then headed straight to bed, ready for the early morning that awaited us.
Early Departure
The next morning began with a 5:45 a.m wake-up call. We packed up quickly and headed to the airport for our flight to Pokhara. The streets of Kathmandu were quiet that early, and the drive was uneventful. Once at the airport, we checked in and went through security without any issues. Bev appreciated the female only lines, allowing her to go through with Irene a lot quicker than the men!
However, once we were through security we were met with a long delay before our flight could board—a common occurrence we were told. We passed the time with coffee, snacks, and people-watching as the morning went on. Eventually, we were cleared to board a small domestic plane for the short flight. The flight took about 25 minutes, offering stunning viess of scattered villages and mountains. We landed in Pokhara later than planned but ready to continue our journey.
This was the day Bev had been most excited about—it’s what sold her on joining the trip in the first place. Having spent most of her career working with children and young people—as a nursery practitioner, youth worker, and more recently as a nursery deputy manager—visiting a local school and meeting the students was right up her alley.
We began our long drive towards Ghandruk, a beautiful village nestled in the mountains. A landslide the previous summer had completely cut off the road about a mile from the village, so we could only drive part of the way. From there, we unpacked the cars, and while the porters raced ahead with our bags, we began the hike—climbing hundreds of uneven stone steps leading to the village entrance.
This was our first group trek, and I was a bit anxious about whether I’d be able to keep up. But those worries quickly faded. We had a wonderfully mixed group—some who could’ve easily powered ahead but chose to take their time, enjoying the views, and others who were managing injuries and pacing themselves carefully. The best part? No one was left behind. We all looked out for each other.
We passed the school on the way to lunch, where we were served a delicious Thali with daal, chicken, rice, and melted yak butter drizzled on top. The yak butter gave the rice a flavour surprisingly similar to popcorn—everyone loved it.
After lunch, we made our way back to the school. We were treated like VIPs, which felt a little surreal. Representing NomadMania and Gaze Nepal, we handed out small gifts and watched as the students performed traditional dances. Then we were split into classrooms to chat with the students. Ewan asked them what their favourite subjects were—most said Nepali. That prompted him to try out some phrases he’d saved, and his pronunciation got a big laugh from everyone.
After some photos with the students, we headed to the school’s sports area, where Ewan, Alex, and Utsab were promptly defeated in a game of basketball.
From there, we walked to our hotel—and it was absolutely stunning. Bev said it gave her serious Encanto vibes with its open front, vibrant flowers, and mountain views. Our room had French doors opening onto a balcony overlooking part of the village and the surrounding peaks.
Dinner was hearty and filling, and afterward we gathered in the courtyard for a cultural performance put on by the local community. They’re working to preserve their traditions and pass them on to the next generation, and it was an incredible thing to witness. At one point, Ewan jumped in on the drumming when one of the performers stood up, and from there the night turned into a joyful blur of clapping, singing, and dancing. One especially enthusiastic man kept whooping so passionately that the musicians kept playing “just one more song” again and again.
At the end of the night, we were each given a beautiful lei before heading to our room. We made the rookie mistake of leaving the bathroom door open a crack, so the room picked up a faint toilet smell—but nothing Ewan’s aftershave couldn’t handle! We were asleep in no time.
A Taste of Local Culture
The next morning, we headed downstairs for breakfast, then made our way to a local home in the village for a cultural experience. There, we were given the chance to dress in traditional Gurung clothing. The women helped us into beautiful dresses and jewellery, joking about piercing our noses while we were there, while the men wore traditional shirts and ‘skirts’. There was plenty of laughter and photo-taking as we admired each other’s new looks.
Still dressed in the full Gurung outfits, we walked over to the nearby Gurung museum, where we explored displays of traditional tools, clothing, and everyday items used by the community over the years. It was a short but enjoyable visit—but the clothing was incredibly warm, and the moment we returned to the hotel, we were quick to change back into cooler clothes.
After freshening up, we packed our bags and began the trek back down to the road. The descent was much easier than the climb up, and the group made good time. Once we reached the cars, we loaded up and set off again.
Our next stop was a visit to Nepal’s longest pedestrian suspension bridge, located just outside Baglung. Stretching over a deep valley, the bridge offers spectacular views of the surrounding hills and river far below. Crossing it was a mix of thrill and awe—it swayed gently with every step, and a few of us held the rails just a little tighter than usual!
It was a short but memorable stop, and of course, we paused for plenty of photos, cold drinks and ice cream before continuing our journey.
After crossing the suspension bridge, we continued our journey with a quick stop at Rupse Falls—one of the most impressive waterfalls in Nepal. The sound of the water crashing down the cliffs was deafening, and the sheer force of it made for a dramatic sight.
We couldn't resist climbing up some of the nearby rocks to get a better view (and a few good photos), and a couple of us even dipped our feet into the water. It was a short visit, but definitely a highlight—refreshing, scenic, and a fun little adventure break in the drive. From there, we made our way to Lete, where we checked into our hotel for the night—See You Lodge. Another fantastic spot, this one had rooms arranged around a central courtyard, with flowers and views of the surrounding mountains. The atmosphere was peaceful, and the staff were welcoming.
That evening, we enjoyed another tasty Thali dinner before gathering around the fire pit. With the stars overhead and the mountains all around us, we spent the night chatting—mostly about the exciting future of NomadMania and the incredible experiences still ahead.
Later, we retreated to our room, tucked ourselves into bed, and had one of the best sleeps of the trip so far.
Fossils, Fresh Air, and a Slower Pace
The next morning, we continued our journey, heading toward Jomsom. A town with a very short and dangerous runway at the airport! This day was all about acclimatising to the altitude, so we kept things slow and relaxed. Once in Jomsom, we had time to explore at our own pace, soaking in the crisp air and quieter pace of life in this Himalayan town. We enjoyed a coffee at a place owned by the guy whose house we were staying in after a few nights in Jomsom.
One of the highlights for Bev was fossil hunting along the riverbed—searching for the famous shaligram stones that are often found in this area. Only Vadeem found one, but we all had so much fun before the rain came! That night we also had the chance to chat with a local herbal doctor, who shared insights into the natural remedies and traditional healing practices still widely used in the region.
It was a calm day—a perfect contrast to some of the more intense moments earlier in the trip. As the sun set behind, we felt rested, refreshed, and ready for the next chapter of the adventure.
From the sacred rituals at Pashupatinath Temple to trekking into the heart of Ghandruk, dressing in traditional Gurung attire, and chasing waterfalls at Rupse Falls—this leg of our journey through Nepal has already given us more unforgettable moments than we could’ve imagined. Each stop has been a blend of culture, connection, and discovery, with plenty of laughs (and Thalis!) along the way.
With Jomsom behind us and even more adventures ahead, we’re just getting started.
If you've enjoyed following along so far, don’t forget to sign up for updates—there’s plenty more to come, and we’d love to have you with us for the rest of the ride. You can also find us on Instagram, where you can see loads more photos!
Bev and Ewan
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