After yet another delayed flight out of Kathmandu (a fitting farewell from Nepal!), we finally landed in Delhi, marking the start of our Indian adventure. The airport was a sharp contrast to what we’d gotten used to. Much larger, more modern, and buzzing with energy even late at night.

Tired but excited, we made our way through immigration and baggage claim, ready to take on a whole new pace, a different culture, and a lot more chaos. We didn’t know exactly what to expect, but we knew this part of the trip would be full of surprises, new flavours, and unforgettable moments.

Let the India chapter begin!

A Chaotic Welcome to Delhi

We got through immigration and baggage claim without any issues, which was a relief after the delays. Everything was fairly straightforward, and we were quickly through to the arrivals hall.

Our next task was to pick up an Indian SIM card which was something we thought would be quick and easy after our Nepalese experience. But when we approached the SIM card kiosks, we were met with blank stares and a group of staff who seemed more interested in chatting among themselves than helping. We waited, asked for assistance a few times, and were ignored until someone finally acknowledged us only to say they couldn’t sell any SIM cards for “another half an hour.” No explanation. After waiting a few more minutes with no sign of change, we decided not to waste more time. We risked heading to our accommodation without local data or the ability to call.

Our taxi experience wasn’t exactly smooth either. We joined the queue for the official prepaid taxi service, but it quickly turned into chaos. People kept pushing in front of us, ignoring the queue completely. After a few attempts to stay patient, Ewan finally stepped in, firmly moved someone aside, and made it clear we were next.

To be fair, we were both completely exhausted and overheating after a long day, and Bev had been struggling with her pain condition for a few days by this point. Tempers were frayed, and all we wanted was to get to our accommodation and lie down.

Once we paid for the taxi which was surprisingly cheap, we were immediately surrounded by people pointing in different directions, all claiming to know where we should go. Thankfully, having travelled a fair bit before, we knew better than to follow just anyone. We stuck to looking for someone in the official airport taxi uniform and eventually found the right person to take us.

It was hectic, overwhelming, and not quite the welcome we’d hoped for but we were finally on our way to our first stop in India.

Cafe Grumpee

We spent our first night in the city at a hostel, taking it easy with dinner delivered straight to our room. No exploring that night, just rest. After a solid sleep, we were up early and ready to dive into our first full day in India.

Bev had been hoping for a gentle intro to the chaos, but Ewan had other plans and suddenly the day was packed. The heat hit hard and made everything feel a little more intense, but we were determined to explore a much as we could. Tuk-tuks quickly became our favorite way to get around: cheap on Uber and perfect for catching a breeze as we weaved through traffic.

Our first stop was the stunning Lotus Temple, a place of worship open to all faiths and backgrounds. It's the only Baháʼí temple in Asia and sees around 4.5 million visitors each year. The Baháʼí Faith, which began in 19th-century Iran, focuses on the idea of unity.

Our next stop was a visit to Humayun’s Tomb, a UNESCO World Heritage site and a work of art! We accidentally ended up with a tour guide (classic tourist move), but it actually turned out to be a great decision. He was full of interesting facts, knew all the best photo spots, and even became our personal photographer for half an hour. We had a good laugh with him before he left us to wander off on our own to explore the tomb and its perfectly laid-out grounds.

Once we’d had our fill of history (and symmetry), we grabbed an Uber and headed to Chandni Chowk. Before heading towards the market we stopped off to see the Red Fort. We didn’t venture too far in due to the sheer volume of people, but it was incredible to look at and experience!

When we managed to escape the crowds we headed to the Chandni Chowk market. This is one of India’s oldest and busiest markets. We arrived a bit early for peak ‘buzz’, but we didn’t mind as that just means we’ll have to come back another time to experience it properly. In desperate need of air-con, we made a detour to a nearby shopping mall. Bev was in her element browsing the gorgeous Indian dress shops, and before long, she guided Ewan straight to the familiar comfort Starbucks. This was our first chain coffee stop in over a month!

Coffee in hand, we jumped into another Uber and headed towards India Gate. Walking down the path with monkeys either side as we headed towards this powerful war memorial, honouring 70,000 Indian soldiers who fought in World War I. We didn’t stop for long as we were on a mission to reach Nehru Park. We stretched our legs with a quick walk through its lovely green spaces before making our way to the National Rail Museum.

Now here’s where things started to turn. It was extremely hot and muggy. Normally we can cope with this, but by this point we had been walking to streets of Delhi all day. The museum was packed and Bev was not loving life. Ewan (always ready with a solution) found a nearby café, ‘Cafe Grumpee’. Luckily Bev saw the humour in his choice, and the cool air inside worked its magic. We recovered over coffee, Diet Coke, and a little cake in what turned out to be a very cute pit stop.

‘Flushed’ with Knowledge

Our afternoon continued with our whirlwind tour of New Delhi as we made a quick trip to the Museum of Aviation. We enjoyed the tuk-tuk ride there and spotted a few model planes as we got closer, which got us thinking how much our son would have loved it! Naturally, that meant snapping lots of photos to show him when we returned.

Next up was Ewan’s most anticipated (and possibly strangest) highlight of the day; the Sulabh International Museum of Toilets. Bev was horrified that he actually wanted to go inside but it turned out to be surprisingly interesting! From ancient toilet systems (and holes in the ground!) to some retro camping toilets we remembered from childhood camping trips. The museum gave us a good laugh and a bit of a reality check when we realised how long ago our “childhood camping days” actually were! We had a stroll through the grounds and then decided it was time to escape the afternoon heat.

We had a quick Google search and found Ambience Mall. We didn’t expect it to be so big but after the chaos of Delhi’s streets, it was a welcome breather. We explored a few floors, and Bev happily spent some of our Indian rupees in Bath & Body Works. After walking around the mall, we were ready to refuel. It took a couple of tries to find refrigerated drinks, but Ewan finally discovered a budget version of Dr Pepper big ‘thumbs up’ from him (see photo below).

Once we’d cooled down and rested our feet, we braved the heat again to wait for our Uber back into the city. Our final sightseeing stop of the day was the impressive Qutub Minar one of Delhi’s most famous landmarks. We didn’t stay long as the day had been so busy we were ready for our bed, but even a quick visit gave us a sense of the site’s history.

From there, we headed straight back to our hostel for a well-earned rest. Conveniently, our hostel was right next to a service station, so we grabbed some snacks for a super simple dinner and called it an early night. We were both straight to sleep as we had a train to catch the next morning for the highlight of our India trip. After all, no trip to India is complete without standing in front of the most famous monument in the country…

Wonder of the World

We were up bright and early, exhausted but excited as it was Taj Mahal day! After stuffing our new Delhi purchases into our already full suitcases, we headed out to catch our train to Agra. Our Uber driver took a few very questionable turns, at one point taking us into a slightly dodgy industrial area, but eventually, we made it to the station with enough time to grab some drinks and snacks and wait on the platform.

We were expecting chaos with the trains, we'd watched a few too many YouTube videos about Indian train journeys, but to our surprise, the train was clean, spacious, and actually quite relaxing. We settled into our seats and ended up chatting with a few other English travellers nearby which helped the journey fly by.

Breakfast was served onboard, though we’d already had a few snacks so we just picked at the lighter bits (and Bev got her much-needed coffee fix). Then they handed out a single rose to each passenger. Definitely not something we expected on a budget train ride!

A few hours later, we arrived into Agra. This time, Bev had done the organising and had arranged for our luggage to be stored at the station. Top tip: when you get off the train, you’ll probably be approached by people trying to “help.” One persistent local tried to lead us out of the station, claiming he’d show us the way, but thankfully we didn’t follow him. Do not leave the station! The official luggage storage is on Platform 1, to the left as you look at the exit of the station. No booking needed but it is a first come, first served situation and you’ll need your own padlock. We did not know this, but thankfully you can buy one at a little kiosk on the platform. The staff were really helpful, and even remembered us later when we came back for our bags.

A few days earlier, we’d booked a private guide and driver for our visit to the Taj Mahal, and they met us just outside the station. We were soon off to pick up our guide, then headed straight to the Taj Mahal.

Security at the entrance was a bit chaotic, with separate lines for men and women we lost each other in the crowd for a moment. Thankfully, we found each other again, and it was time for the main event.

Just before going in, our guide mentioned the local photographers who offer photo packages. It wasn’t a hard sell at all, and we agreed to a basic package of 30–50 digital shots plus 5 printed photos. In the end, the photographer gave us all the photos digitally for the same price. And honestly, it was totally worth it. He cleared crowds out of our shots, positioned us perfectly, and knew all the best angles. We didn’t plan to do this at all as our guide would have been able to get some good photos for us, but it was one of the best decisions we made that day!

Walking through the main gate and seeing the Taj Mahal for the first time was absolutely surreal. Bev remembered hearing about it in a school assembly years ago, but nothing prepares you for how majestic it looks in person. The scale of the building and grounds and the beautiful white marble was really breathtaking.

Our guide paced things well, letting the photographer take some photos and then jumping in with information about the history, construction, and stories behind the monument. Going inside was a real highlight, but the whole place had a magical feel to it.

The crowds were crazy, and more than once random tourists tried to grab Bev for selfies (a recurring theme in India…). Our guide stepped in quickly and calmly each time and without him, we would’ve felt much more flustered!

After the tour, our driver picked us up again and took us to a local restaurant recommended by our guide. It was authentic and delicious, the perfect break!. We finished the day with a quick stop at a hand-woven rug store, and then said goodbye to our amazing guide and driver.

A packed start to our day, but absolutely unforgettable. Our first Wonder of the World definitely lived up to the hype.

An Overnight Adventure: Agra to Mumbai

We originally planned to explore Agra Fort properly, but the heat and exhaustion hit us both hard and Bev started to have a panic attack with the crowds and people constantly asking us if we wanted their taxi. So instead we made a super quick visit, snapped a few photos, and then set off in search of cold drinks and some much-needed air conditioning.

We wandered through a nearby market which turned out to be the same five stalls repeated on every corner, so eventually made our way back to the train station before our overnight journey.

With a few hours to spare we headed into the air-conditioned lounge reserved for “upper class” ticket holders. And although it was advertised as air-conditioned, the power kept cutting out every few minutes meaning we never really cooled down. Thankfully, the time passed quickly and we made a little friend in a five-year-old girl who kept offering us her sweets and insisted Ewan tried on her hat! Her parents were lovely, and we had a lovely conversation about our own five year old at home.

After about an hour, in this lounge and a quick stop to the very interesting toilet set up, we left to collect our luggage and see if there was a better spot to wait. We found a paid lounge and it was worth the couple of pounds for stable AC, clean toilets and comfy chairs.

Then it was time to board our overnight sleeper train to Mumbai. This was going to be a 16+ hour journey. We’d seen plenty of questionable videos online, so we were a little nervous, but it felt like something we just had to try, especially as we didn’t have the children to worry about this time!

We had booked the top-tier class for AC and pre-ordered the veggie meals to reduce the risk of any “Delhi belly” situations. After a surprisingly decent dinner and a bit of downtime watching Netflix, we climbed into our bunks and tried to get some sleep. Despite a few noisy neighbours, we both slept really well.

Eventually, we arrived into Mumbai, our final stop of the trip. We excitedly stepped off the train and promptly walked the wrong way trying to find our hotel. We realised we should have just ordered an Uber, fixed our mistake and got to the hotel in no time!

For our last night in India, we’d splashed out and booked a stay at the Intercontinental Hotel. We were really looking forward to some luxury after a night on the train and to top it off we were upgraded to a full corner suite. It was absolutely stunning and the perfect way to end our adventure.

After dropping our bags, we headed out for some pizza, then strolled back to the hotel where Bev made full use of the hot bath and we both collapsed for a well earned rest. As we were both way too tired to venture out of the hotel for dinner, we headed upstairs to the rooftop bar, ordered some food, and watched the sunset over the sea. It was the perfect final evening and we ended up taking our pudding back to the room and finishing it in bed!

The Official End

We started our final day with a big breakfast at the hotel. Fresh pancakes cooked to order, eggs any way you liked, and more delicious options than we could count. We made the most of it, knowing we had a long day ahead with our flight not leaving until 01:40 the next morning.

After breakfast, we dropped our luggage at the front desk for them to look after for the day and hopped in an Uber to the Gateway of India. As soon as we arrived, we were approached by a crowd of people trying to sell us boat tickets. We politely ignored them and made our way straight to the boat as we knew you could buy tickets as you boarded.

The boat ride to Elephanta Island took about an hour. It was busy, but not uncomfortable. When we arrived we were once again approached by people offering tours but we held our ground and made our way to the little train that takes you closer to the base of the caves.

The Elephanta Caves are a group of temples, mainly dedicated to Shiva, and are a UNESCO World Heritage Site - another one ticked off our list! To reach the caves, we climbed 120 stone steps, which felt a lot tougher than expected in the heat of midday. Thankfully, the stairs were lined with stalls, so we took plenty of breaks, browsing souvenirs and grabbing cold drinks along the way.

At the top, we caught our breath and then explored the caves. The carvings and history were incredible, but the heat was insane, so we didn’t stay too long. After making our way back down the steps, we grabbed a delicious lunch on the island and treated ourselves to an ice cream.

On the return train to the boat, a few monkeys tried to steal our ice creams which caused a lot of amusement from others around us… The ferry ride back was a little bumpier, and Bev started to feel a bit travel sick, but she managed a little power nap on Ewan’s shoulder before trying to get some photos of the boats for the children.

Back on land, we made our way to the Leopold Café. This is a well known spot that was one of the sites of the 2008 Mumbai attacks. A site where 11 people lost their lives. We enjoyed a sit down with a drink and ice cream before heading back to collect our bags.

On our way back to the hotel, we popped into a few quirky little shops, then called for an Uber. With a few hours still to spare, we made one last stop at Starbucks, where Ewan went off on a short walk to check out a couple of historic sites he’d read about. Bev stayed behind with her coffee and we both ended up chatting to a local dad waiting for his daughter’s music class to finish. After sharing stories about our trip (and Ewan’s previous visit to Syria), we introduced him to NomadMania, a wonderful travel community, which he seemed excited to join. This was also where we realised that Ewan had lost his wallet in the back of our previous Uber… Thankfully there was only his bank cards and driving licence in there, and they were all frozen and replaced!

Once Bev was caffeinated we headed to the airport. Finding the right entrance was a bit of a challenge as there were no signs for British Airways anywhere! After asking for help we were pointed to the last entrance (of course). Once inside, we had time for a final drink and to catch up on our daily journals before checking in.

We made the most of the airport lounge and enjoyed quick hot showers, a change of clothes, some food, and a bit of rest before boarding our flight home.

And just like that, our adventure through Nepal and India came to an end.

From the peaceful mountains and temples of Nepal to the colourful chaos of India, this trip gave us so many unforgettable memories. We explored ancient sites, took sleeper trains, wandered through busy markets, and met some incredible people along the way.

It wasn’t always easy with the heat, the crowds, and a few unexpected situations, but that’s all part of the experience. We learned so much, and experienced so many moments we will never forget.

This journey reminded us why we love to travel. For the adventure, the surprises, and the stories we get to bring home.

Thanks for following this exciting journey, a BIG update is coming next!

Bev and Ewan

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