Nepal - Part 5
Finally, we have reached the end of our Nepal trip. It was really hard to say goodbye to such a beautiful country but the fun wasn’t over. Our next blog will be all about the chaos of India and why Bev is in no rush to return there!
Another Day, Another Flight
We were up again early for another flight from Kathmandu to Dhangadhi. At this point, we were professional at the Nepal airport security system and whizzed through Kathmandu security in no time. As always, Irene and Bev sped through the female line much quicker than the men. We boarded our plane with only a little delay this time!
During the flight, we all flipped through the in-flight magazine, reading up on what was next—Shuklaphanta National Park and our first safari in Nepal. Ewan spotted an empty row (the first we’d seen on any of our flights so far!) and happily claimed the extra space.
Dhangadhi airport was tiny and by the time we walked from the plane to the terminal (with a quick group photo, of course), our bags were already waiting for us.
We split into two cars and set off toward our homestay for the night. The heat hit hard but thankfully these cars came with modern A/C, which felt like a luxury. Not long into the drive, we pulled over for some cold drinks. Right next to the shop, a man was selling sugarcane juice, and of course we had to try it. The flavour was… interesting. Ewan preferred his without salt, but Bev was actually glad it came salted this time!
A Warm Welcome
We arrived at our homestay and were greeted by the whole family who welcomed us into their home with a traditional blessing and some flowers. The ladies were dressed in their colourful traditional clothing which we were going to see again later that night. We took a seat and waited for some lunch. This homestay was gorgeous. We had 2 rooms next to each other and Utsab was a short walk away in the village.
After lunch, we set off on a walk through the village. It was fascinating to see how different life is out here compared to Kathmandu and everything felt slower, simpler, and incredibly peaceful. Our homestay host told us that they often have to rebuild the fence between the village and the national park because elephants keep breaking through! Just a casual part of life here, apparently.
The heat to the west of Nepal was intense, and without air-conditioning (just a small ceiling fan doing its best), we all headed for a lie-down to recover some energy. The rest didn’t last long though as Utsab had a plan. Before dinner, and after putting on LOTS of insect repellant, we headed out to a nearby bridge to catch the sunset. And it was totally worth it.
A Beautiful Sunset
On our way to the bridge, Utsab recommended that we stopped off on the outskirts of Shuklaphanta National Park and go and see some elephants. We approached with a mix of feelings about seeing the elephants loosely tied up. For us, it was our first time seeing elephants out of a zoo environment, so we were blown away and loved watching them. We did, however, acknowledge that others in the group felt uncomfortable at the thought of this. Either way, it looked like the animals were loved and cared for.
We continued our journey to the Dodhara Chandani Suspension Bridge. Once we arrived we had a little while before the sun as due to set so we headed to the local shops and went on a hunt to find Coca Cola! After a few drinks and snacks we sat down to FaceTime the children before the sun went down. We watched the sun set and then headed back to the cars to go for dinner at the homestay.
The hosts had made us a chicken Dhal, but with all the chickens running around the place, Bev opted for the veggie version and enjoyed some of the sauce from the chicken. While we were enjoying dinner, they were lighting incense sticks all over to repel the mosquitos. Bev seems to always be bitten by bugs, so she was extra concerned about them.
After dinner, and a smothering of mosquito repellent, we walked down to the community hall for another cultural show. These performances have been such a highlight of the trip as they were so full of energy and heart. We even got up to dance again with the locals, which always ends in laughs and sore feet. By the end of the night, we were totally wiped and ready to collapse into bed, grateful for the small fans in our rooms and some well-earned sleep.
Jeep Safari Adventure
Today was the day Bev had been looking forward to the most during our whole trip although, to be fair, she’s probably said that about half the things we’ve done so far!
We were up bright and early to meet our driver and host for the day, whom we had briefly encountered the day before while wandering around the village. The early start was essential, as there’s only a short window each morning when visitors are allowed into the National Park. These time slots help limit human impact on the environment and reduce disturbance to the wildlife.
On arrival, we checked in and were introduced to our official National Park guide, who would accompany us for the day. His job was to help us spot animals, answer our many questions, and most importantly keep us safe.
Before entering the park, the staff conducted a quick check of all plastic items we were bringing with us, including water bottles. They counted every item, and we were told we’d need to return with the exact same number. While we’re not entirely sure what would happen if we came back with one missing, it's clearly part of a strict anti-littering initiative designed to protect the ecosystem.
As we headed into the park, passing through a few security checkpoints, we kept our eyes peeled for any wildlife. Then just as we were driving deeper into the reserve Bev happened to glance behind her and suddenly spotted a leopard! We tried to reverse to catch another glimpse and maybe get a photo, but it had already started to vanish into the undergrowth. Even though it was brief, seeing a wild leopard in its natural habitat was unforgettable.
We continued on through the park, spotting an incredible array of wildlife, especially deer, which seemed to be everywhere. At one point, we stopped for a simple but delicious breakfast packed by our homestay hosts, accompanied by a hot cup of tea in the cool morning air.
Not long after, we pulled over again to take a short walk closer to a large herd of deer grazing in an open area. As we approached, we noticed several antlers scattered across the ground which had been shed naturally by male deer at the end of the mating season. It was a quiet, peaceful moment and a reminder of how untouched and wild this place still is.
By late morning, the sun had risen higher and the park was starting to feel a little more alive with more birds overhead and the occasional rustle in the undergrowth keeping us all on our toes. We didn’t spot another leopard, but it didn’t matter. The stillness, the scenery, and just being out in the wild made it feel like we’d seen more than enough!
As we headed back toward the park gates, a bit dusty and very tired, Bev announced once again that this was the highlight of the trip. And honestly this time, she might actually have been right…
Goodbye!
After returning from the Jeep Safari, we had a little time to rest before lunch. The night before, we’d made the wise decision to begin our journey toward Lumbini that evening, rather than doing the full 10+ hour drive in one go. Future us was very grateful for that choice.
We enjoyed our final lunch at the homestay while our host expertly wove hand fans for each of us. We watched in awe — and although a few of us tried to join in, our weaving skills were nowhere near quick or tidy enough to be of any use!
Saying goodbye to this community was emotional. The family had welcomed us so warmly into their home and clearly took joy in sharing their culture with us. Bev had initially felt unsure about the homestay aspect of the trip — especially with her fibromyalgia and the more basic facilities — but, as it turned out, these stays became some of our favourite experiences. Before we left, the host family changed back into their traditional dress to give us a heartfelt send-off, and then it was time to hit the road.
The drive to the hotel was largely uneventful. We stopped halfway for a toilet break and a quick meal. Bev even braved trying fried fish — something she wouldn’t have gone near a few years ago! It wasn’t exactly her new favourite snack, but she was pleasantly surprised. (Check out the photo of the little fish below…)
As we got closer to the hotel, we had to navigate around a few wildfires near the road. Just as we pulled in, the rain started. We were lucky that we made it into our rooms and down for dinner just before the storm really began.
Dinner that evening came with a bit of a language barrier. Utsab was off finishing some work, so we had to order independently — which resulted in a few surprise dishes at the table. Eventually, though, everything worked itself out… despite the power cutting out seven times during the meal. Back in the room, the electricity continued to flicker on and off all night, but the storm outside was incredible to watch!
The Journey to Lumbini
Breakfast the next morning was excellent with a wide selection and, thankfully, no translation mishaps. We had another early start ahead of us to complete the final leg of our journey towards Lumbini.
This stretch was smooth and undramatic and by mid-afternoon we arrived at our next hotel and reunited with Harry from NomadMania. He’d taken a bit of time to rest and catch up on work. Honestly, being a full-time traveller is one thing but running your own travel community on top of that? We have no idea where he finds the time or energy.
Over coffee, we caught up with Harry and our travel journals before Ewan and I headed out to explore the local area. Just around the corner we found the main street where we picked up some cheap chocolate, cheesy t-shirts, and a few adorable outfits for our babies back home.
We hopped in a tuk tuk back to the hotel to make it back in time for dinner. Although we’d pre-ordered our meals again, there was still a bit of a mix-up which left Bev and some others with no meal that night! Thankfully, most of us had ordered more than enough for everyone to share and we had another early night for our adventures the next day!
Discovering Lumbini
The next morning, we met our guide and walked down toward the Maya Devi Temple, believed to be the birthplace of Lord Buddha. On the way into the Sacred Garden, we stopped to take a few photos and removed our shoes before entering, as is customary. The area had a calm, peaceful feel—quiet paths, prayer flags fluttering in the breeze, and a sense of stillness that encouraged us to slow down and take it all in.
We walked through the Sacred Garden, which includes ancient ruins, ponds, and shaded areas with benches. Monks walked quietly nearby, and we took five minutes to sit and meditate ourselves. It was a simple moment but added to the overall experience.
Before heading to the other side of the complex, we stopped for some cold drinks, which quickly caught the attention of a few young boys nearby who were clearly hoping for a sip. After our refreshments, we took a short boat ride along the canal that runs through the Lumbini complex. The ride was calm and gave us a different view of the temples and landscaped gardens around us.
Before heading back to the hotel, we visited a few of the international monasteries and temples spread across the site. Each was built by a different country and reflected its own style of Buddhist architecture. Some were quiet and minimal, while others were colourful and more elaborate. We went between a few of them, taking photos where allowed, and getting a sense of how different cultures represent their connection to Buddhism.
Overall, this was an experience to remember!
Our Final Goodbye!
After spending time in the warm lowlands and experiencing the spiritual calm of Lumbini, we returned to the hotel to pack our bags and start shifting our mindset for the next leg of the journey: India. Having travelled with a group for so long, it felt a bit strange to be heading off on our own again—but with plenty of travel experience between us, we were ready for whatever challenges India might bring.
We made our way to the airport to catch our flight back to Kathmandu. As is often the case in Nepal, the flight was delayed, but we passed the time with ice creams and coffee. The airport was very small, only allowing one flight through security at a time, which meant that once we were through, boarding was quick and straightforward.
Back in Kathmandu, we returned to the hotel we'd stayed at earlier in the trip. It was nice to be somewhere familiar—no surprises with the food or communication this time around! That evening, we said our goodbyes to Harry, who was flying out, and to Utsab. Utsab had been a real highlight of the trip, sharing his love for Nepali culture and quickly becoming part of the group.
For our final evening in the city, we walked into the centre looking for a same-day laundry service. We found one with Utsab’s recommendation and, although it felt a bit odd dropping off our clothes late at night, it’s a normal practice here. We also went on the hunt for paracetamol—after some confusion between herbal and medical pharmacies, we eventually found what we needed, spending just 6p for 20 tablets.
We finished the day with dinner at the hotel, then headed back out to collect our laundry and grab a few snacks for the morning. Then it was time for bed, ready for whatever came next.
That brings our Nepal adventure to a close! We both fell in love with the country its culture, its landscapes, and especially its people. It was an unforgettable experience, and Bev is already thinking about when we can return with the kids! As we prepared to head into India, we weren’t quite sure what to expect, but we were excited to explore new places and tick off more regions on our NomadMania world map.
We flew with Air India for the next leg of our journey. The flight was smooth and the crew were professional throughout. Given recent events involving the airline, we understand it may be a sensitive topic for some. Our experience, however, was uneventful and efficient.
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See you in the next one,
Bev & Ewan
Planning a trip to Nepal or have questions about anything we’ve shared? Feel free to message us on Instagram—we’re always happy to chat and help out!
